Now that I’ve gone through all the possibilities to customize my original Hybrid Mask for a wide range of face shapes, needs and preferences, I finally created a new cloth mask pattern with an open chin dart (or twisted pleat). Similar to 3D, Boxy, Origami, Japanese or Octagon shapes, which form a square box, the Hybrid Boxy Mask forms a triangular box which does not touch the mouth or nosetip and offers plenty of space for breathing, speaking or singing.
Unlike the 3D / Boxy masks with an octagonal pattern, which have the same shape of top and bottom and therefor, easily gape without nose wire, the Hybrid Boxy Mask takes the anatomy of nose and chin into account: Thanks to a reverse nose pleat and other tricks, it fits absolutely gapless and slip-free, even without a nose wire! Just like my Hybrid Pleated Mask, fit, function and process are optimized down to the very last detail. The ties, the optional nose wire and optional filter are of course interchangeable, and the mask is very quick (5-15 mins) and really easy to sew.
Table of Contents
(1) Introduction: Test Series of 3D / Boxy, Reinvention of a Hybrid Boxy Mask, Variants and Handling of Cloth Masks
(2) Instructions for Sewing a Hybrid Boxy Mask, Intro for seperate Tutorial, Adjustments for Sizes and Face Shapes
(3) Frequently Asked Questions about Fit (Glasses), Ties, Material, Filters, Workmanship, Tests and Masks for Sale
(4) Download of Instructions and Pattern as Printable PDF, Conditions of Use, Rights and Sharing and Thanksgiving
Test Series of classic 3D / Boxy mask patterns
In March 2020, I tested all freely available mask patterns and ultimately invented the Hybrid Pleated Mask. As far as I know, the 3D / Boxy shape did not yet exist back then. There were pouch masks though, which are pretty much just a rectangle folded inwards on top and bottom and then stitched flat at the sides. They were far too close to the mouth.
Parallel to my Hybrid Pleated Mask, I’ve seen several octagonal 3D / Boxy mask patterns gain popularity with the mask makers – and to me, this seemed to be one of the few shapes which, at least with a nosewire, fit okay for many.
We’re still perfectly happy with my Hybrid Pleated Masks (with risk group in the family and medical masks being mandatory in Germany, all we need is a top mask to gaplessly seal our FFP2/KN95 masks, and the Hybrid Pleated Mask does that perfectly!), yet I can relate to the desire for more space, and I found this to be an interesting problem :)
A couple of months ago, I was asked to make some window masks. The flat front of the 3D / Boxy (see Fig. 1) seemed useful for the purpose, so I finally had a reason to test patterns! After seeing the 3D / Boxy fit decently on many, I was quite surprised how bad it gaped around my own rather high nose bridge, and how it slipped up into my eyes.
For window masks, I ended up using my Hybrid Pleated Mask pattern, even though the window gets folded with the pleats – and decided to find a better solution for a mask that was flat at the front and had plenty of room to breathe.
Definition of a “good” mask
In general, the quality of a mask – cloth mask as well as medical mask – results from (a) gapless fit, (b) filter efficiency and (c) breathability. If you’re interested in why and how exactly masks work, please read my post on Mask Science!
Personally, I think that a “good” mask shouldn’t necessarily need a nose wire to seal so gaplessly that glasses don’t fog up – and to me, masks that don’t fit without a wire are just as sexy as pants with an elastic waistband… :)! After all, the human nose is shaped differently from the human chin, so I think they should be treated differently in patterns.
That being said, noses are of course shaped differently too – and all those with a rather flat / low nose bridge should be relatively satisfied with the classic 3D / Boxy mask, while those who – like me – have a rather high / steep nose bridge, just don’t achieve a tight (let alone gapless!) fit with any top edge that runs relatively straight to the ear root.
The Idea behind the Hybrid Boxy Pattern
My initial idea was to combine the bottom part of the octagonal 3D / Boxy mask with the top part of my Hybrid Pleated Mask (see Fig. 2), by replacing the usual 6 segments of the octagonal 3D / Boxy mask (2 segments that fold back-and-forth at the top, a middle panel 2 segments high, as well as 2 segments that fold back-and-forth at the bottom) with 5 segments of the same height, including a top segment that folds only backwards (instead of back-and-forth, like the octagonal 3D / Boxy mask), in order to create more space for the nose and an angle that fits gaplessly without wire.
While Germany is facing exponentially growing infection rates again (and worse than ever…), I finally stole time to test this idea, and to fully optimize it!! After all, my Hybrid Boxy Mask pattern (see Fig. 3) turned out to become slightly more complex than merely combining these elements, and due to some tricks, it fits even better than I had hoped! :)
Introduction of the optimized Hybrid Boxy Mask
Just like my Hybrid Pleated Mask, my Hybrid Boxy Mask has a reverse nose pleat that adapts to the shape of the nose so gaplessly that even without wire, glasses don’t fog up! By extending this reverse pleat, the mask fits securely on the nose even when speaking, laughing or yawning, despite its fixed shape, and offers plenty of space to the front.
If desired, an exchangeable nose wire, which protects glasses even more reliably from fogging, can be inserted through an invisisible opening in the top seam. The wire runs full width to not only optimize fit, but also prevent injuries.
Instead of the two pleats of the Hybrid Pleated Mask, there’s a single chin pleat, designed as an open dart or twisted pleat (actually a simplified form of the Hybrid Space Mask which is far more complicated to sew!), which corresponds to the 3D / Boxy masks and creates plenty of space to the front, so that the mask does reliably not touch the mouth. Those open darts or twisted pleats can be sewn two ways, either opening upwards or opening downwards.
Just like in the Hybrid Pleated Mask, the sides of the Hybrid Boxy Mask are angled to a trapezoid. This time, however, the wider side is at the bottom instead of at the top, because this helps to create significantly more space at the front!
In contrast to the Hybrid Pleated Mask, whose pleats allow the separate side channels to round forward and therefor improve the fit blatantly, the Hybrid Boxy Mask has immovable sides that can be sewn directly into channels, and still fit perfectly. If desired (f.e. for thicker outer materials), you can of course still attach a separate channel!
Thanks to those channels, ear loops or head ties can be individually adjusted and easily exchanged at any time.
Into the Hybrid Boxy Mask, optional filters are even more complicated to insert than into the Hybrid Pleated Mask, so instead of the filter opening, I invented a filter frame with a special pattern, where the pre-cut filter material is placed on the inside of the mask, distributed into the corners and pleats, and then held securely on all sides. If you prefer, you can of course also sew or staple separate sub-masks with the same pattern, or wear a surgical mask underneath!
Variants of the Hybrid Boxy Mask
The open chin pleat can be folded two directions – either (a) downwards or inwards (fig. above, back), so that the side of the middle panel is smooth and the pleat rises inside, or ( b) upwards or outwards (fig. above, front) so that the side shows the open pleat. The fit is similar, but the downwards pleat looks boxier, while the upwards pleat looks rounder.
Furthermore, the sides can be folded inside to form a tie channel, as described in the instructions. Alternatively, a separate tie channel can be attached, as described in instructions and tutorial for the Hybrid Pleated Mask.
The most versatile, easiest and fastest to sew is the Hybrid Boxy Mask with the chin pleat down or inside and the sides cut with flaps or wings for the main panel, which simply fold back to form a drawstring channel. This method is most versatile and also works great with a heavier outer fabric, so this is what I chose to sew for instructions and tutorial!
The pattern of the flap or wing in the outer fabric for the side, which folds over to form a drawstring channel, can be seen above on the left side. For rather thin fabrics or if you generally prefer to have more stable channels, instead of the small wing, you can simply cut the whole side of the outer fabric 3 cm / 1.2” wider, as shown on the right side.
If you want to sew the Hybrid Boxy Mask with the visually slightly rounder chin pleat facing upwards or outwards, the most simple solution is to cut the entire side of the outer fabric 3 cm / 1.2” wider and fold it over to form the channel.
You can see the cut of the side of the outer fabric with a 3 cm / 1.2” allowance over the full length above on the right side. For very heavy fabrics that don’t pleat nicely, the flaps or wings can also be cut more tightly, as shown on the left. The two flap or wing parts can either be left open or – better – connected with a small seam before pleating the mask.
The somewhat more elaborate, but very neat looking separate channels can be attached just like in the Hybrid Pleated Mask, and it can be used with the open chin pleat folded either downwards / inwards or upwards / outwards.
In order to use a separate channel, all fabrics are cut exactly to the same width, without flaps or wings. In addition, you need two strips of fabric from the same material, approx. 6 x 9 cm / 2.4” x 3.6” per side for size M (other sizes listed below). If you want, you can also use another material or a different grain direction, to add an interesting visual accent.
Handling Handmade Cloth Masks
With careful handling, a handmade cloth mask can be rather effective for protecting others from its wearer, but the protection for the wearer is extremely limited. Please keep that in mind! If you use this mask, you do so at your own risk, and you should of course still follow the usual safety protocol (distance, ventilation, hand hygiene, etc.).
Wash your hands before donning the mask and insert a wire and a filter, if needed. Fold up the reverse pleat, place it on your nose and pull the ties tight around your ears or head. Straighten the reverse pleat on your nose, adjust the wire and slightly crease the drawstrings. The mask should fit as close to the face as possible, without constricting.
If the mask fits correctly, do not touch it anymore! Always treat the mask as if it were contaminated. If straightening the mask while wearing it is unavoidable, only touch the ties and never the fabric, then wash your hands immediately. Do not wear the mask for more than 4 hours, if it becomes dirty or damp, or if you can’t breathe really well!
To doff the mask, grasp the ties and remove it without touching the fabric. Store it in a closed container and wash your hands and face thoroughly. The mask should be cleaned after each use! To do this, remove filter and wire, launder at least 60° C (better 95°) in the machine or cook for 5 minutes. Wash your hands! Allow to dry and p.r.n., iron well.
You can sew this cloth mask easily and quickly yourself! You’ll need two or more layers of fabric that can be washed with at least 60° C, 14 – 16 cm of nose wire, 50 – 100 cm (elastic) ties, a sewing machine or needle and thread, a pair of scissors, sewing clips or pins, chalk for marking and a tool to pull ties, e.g. an awl, folded wire or safety pin.
Brief Instructions for Sewing the Hybrid Boxy Mask
(1) Cut at least 2 layers of fabric, according to the printed pattern for the downward chin fold, with flaps for attached side channels on the outermost layer only. Pattern and fabrics can be folded in half and layered for cutting.
Variation: For sewing the chin pleat upwards, add 3 cm / 1.2” for the channel over the entire height. For separate channels, all layers are cut same width without extra side allowances, plus two strips of 6 x 9 cm / 2.4” x 3.6” each.
(2) If using multiple layers, make two even stacks and treat those as one layer. Now, layer fabrics with right side in. Mark nose wire opening, then topstitch 1 cm / 0.4” from the edge at top and bottom. Flatten all the seam allowances.
Tip: To make the inner layer/s slightly smaller than the outer layer/s and thereby enhance the fit, the fabrics can be rolled up after sewing the first seam at the top, so that the edges for the second seam at the bottom shift slightly!
(3) Turn piece inside out. Flatten edges, then topstitch wire tunnel 0,5 – 1 cm / 0.2”- 0.4” from top edge. Turn piece with inside towards you. For the nose pleat (A or blue marking in pattern), fold the top 3,25 cm / 1.3” down and pin / clip.
Tip: Instead of marking the reverse nose pleat with chalk each time, it can much easier be folded over a set square, the pre-folded printout of the pattern or – even better – an approx. 3.25 cm / 1.3” tall, rectangular cardboard template.
(4) For the chin pleat (B or green marking), fold up the bottom part, so that edges align. Pin / clip. Now, fold down bottom corner and twist outwards, until all side edges are flush and the bottom corner meets the pleat edge. Pin / clip.
Variation: Here, the open chin pleat (B or green marking) points down. To sew the chin pleat (B) pointing up, follow the same procedure, but turn your piece outside after folding back the nose pleat, then fold the open chin pleat from there.
(5) Fold up protruding fabric at the bottom of the side allowance, so it aligns with the bottom edge. Fold allowance up to the edge of inner layers, then around that edge. Pin / clip. Stitch channel from the outside, 1 cm / 0.4” from the edge.
Tip: To simplify the stable handling of the now very three-dimensional work piece, it can be helpful to lean one side of the piece onto an object on your table (e.g. a coffee mug or a pin holder :)), while you work on the other side!
(6) Find the opening in the reverse pleat and push the nose wire into the channel. Use an awl, folded wire or safety pin to pull ties into the side channels. Provide ear loops with an adjustable knot, or adjust them individually. – Done! :)
Tip: For an adjustable knot, simply lead ribbon A around the remaining straight ribbon B with a pretzel knot, and pull it super tight. Ribbon B, which has remained straight throughout the process, can now be pulled to adjust the tie length.
Congratulations, your mask is ready! When donning it, please do not forget to fold up the reverse nose pleat, adjust the straps individually and pull the channels tight, so that the sides fit neatly. I hope you enjoyed sewing with me! :)
Detailed Step by Step Picture Instructions in a separate Tutorial
Especially for beginners (and anyone else who easily gets lost in patterns!), I’ve made a very detailed step by step picture tutorial for this mask, to go along with – and complement – the illustrated short instructions. If you’d like to use the photo tutorial, please download and print short instructions and pattern (PDF at the end of this post) first! ➔
Adjustments for different Sizes and Shapes
The dimensions of the Hybrid Boxy Mask pattern are designed as a universal women’s mask (European size M, rather slim than loose fitting), which also fits teenagers and some men relatively well! Before you start making modified sizes, I recommend sewing and fully understanding the standard model first, so that it doesn’t get too complicated.
Additional sizes can be continuously generated by printing: size XXS (approx. 2-4 year old children) corresponds to 70%, XS (approx. 4-8 yo) corresponds to 80%, size S (approx. 8-12 yo) corresponds to 90%, size M 100%, size L 110%, size XL 120% and size XXL 130%. It is advisable to immediately write the respective size on the printout :)
|Size||Printout||Fabric / incl. Allowance
||Pleat Height (1/5)
||Finished (Top / Bottom)
|XXS||70%||12,775 x 15 / 21 cm||2,275 cm||ca. 4,55 x 11 / 8 cm||5 x 6 cm|
|XS||80%||14,6 x 17 / 23 cm||2,6 cm||ca. 5,2 x 13 / 10 cm||5 x 7 cm|
|S||90%||16,5 x 19 / 25 cm||2,925 cm||ca. 5,85 x 15 / 12 cm||5 x 8 cm|
|M||100%||18,25 x 21 / 27 cm||3,25 cm||ca. 6,5 x 17 / 14 cm||5 x 9 cm|
|L||110%||20 x 23 / 29 cm||3,575 cm||ca. 7,15 x 19 / 16 cm||5 x 10 cm|
|XL||120%||21,9 x 25 / 31 cm||3,9 cm||ca. 7,8 x 21 / 18 cm||5 x 11 cm|
|XXL||130%||23,725 x 27 / 33 cm||4,225 cm||ca. 8,45 x 23 / 20 cm||5 x 12 cm|
Adjustments to the reverse nose pleat can be made according to the Hybrid Nose Mask, but major adjustments to the chin area (like the Hybrid Beard Mask) are not that easy (or even possible) without straight side-to-side pleats. The side angle can be changed though for particularly narrow or square faces; I’ll make separate patterns for this later!
If you want, you can measure from the top of your ear to the middle of the tip of your nose. We call this number X. Mask width = [X – (X: 3.5)] x 2 + 1. If you measure 14 cm, for example, you calculate [14 – (14: 3.5)] x 2 + 1 = 21 and should be size M (width 21 cm). When in doubt, a smaller size may offer more space, because it protrudes further.
The Hybrid Boxy Mask can also be worn as a double mask over a surgical mask, which should have its earloops knotted at the sides. As a cover for the FFP2 / KN95 type of masks, the Hybrid Pleated Mask fits much better!
Frequently Asked Questions (+ some little Hacks)
You’ll find everything you really need to sew the Hybrid Boxy Mask above and in the pattern, so it is not necessary to read all the questions and answers beforehand. If you want, you can scroll down now, to download the pattern at the bottom of the post! If you run into problems, you can always come back, and hopefully you’lll find your solution here :)
More tricks and tips on fit, ties, materials, tests, production and a whole lot of other topics that may also be relevant for the production of the Hybrid Boxy Mask can be found in the far more detailed FAQ of the Hybrid Pleated Mask! Here, I have only gathered a little basic knowledge and questions specifically related to my Hybrid Boxy Mask.
Is this mask suitable for glasses, teachers, kids or special needs?
The Hybrid Boxy Mask is absolutely great for glasses wearers, because it does not even require a nose wire to reliably protect glasses from fogging up! I’d also recommend it for teachers, speakers or even singers, who have to talk a lot, as well as people with HSP / hypersensitivity, sensory isssues, Asperger’s autism or claustrophobia, who cannot (or only with difficulty) bear the touch of a mask on their mouth. In addition, this mask is suitable for everyone who wants more space to breathe and speak, but does not want to make compromises on a gap-free and slip-free secure fit!
So, is the Hybrid Boxy Mask better than the Hybrid Pleated Mask?
The Hybrid Boxy Mask is no better or worse, it’s just different from the Hybrid Pleated Mask! Both of them have in common that with the correct size, ties and handling, they fit absolutely gapless and slipfree on pretty much anyone.
The Hybrid Pleated Mask has an astonishingly universal, uncomplicated fit and fits relatively well even if it’s clearly too small or too large, whereas the Hybrid Boxy Mask should fit more precisely. Due to its pleats, the Hybrid Pleated Mask is also very flexible in length – and when you yawn, pleats move along! With the Hybrid Boxy Mask you can also yawn, but the less flexible box creates tension – and if the mask didn’t have an elongated reverse pleat, it might slip.
In addition, the Hybrid Pleated Mask fits very precisely over FFP2 / KN95 masks and is therefore perfectly suitable as a gaplessly sealing outer mask – especially for those who otherwise fog up their glasses with an FFP2 / KN95 mask.
The one great advantage of the Hybrid Boxy Mask is that it offers an abundance of space to breathe, speak or sing! Those who need that space – or just don’t want to smudge their lipstick – will quite certainly find it better :)
Does this mask have ear loops elastics or a head tie?
Both! Thanks to the channels, ties can easily be exchanged at any given time :) – Personally, I find ear loops easier to put on and therefore, more suitable for short wearing, while for longer wear, I prefer the more comfortable head tie. For donations, I double pack both, and I always make ear loops adjustable with sliding knots (see below).
At second sight, there are far more ways then the well-known ones to tie a mask to your ears or around your head! That’s why I drew a helpful infographic – and published a separate post about 16 different mask tying techniques. ➔
Depending on tying techniques, masks fit differently. Most masks fit well when the ties are pulled straight back, above and below the ear, f.e. with a simple ear loop or head tie – and even better when the lower tie is pulled up, f.e. by crossing ties. I advise against wearing both cords under the ear, as this shifts the center of gravity and creates gaps.
Our currently favored tying technique, which is not only very comfortable but also easy to dress (even one-handed!), is connected ear loops – with extended, adjustable ear loops (approx. 30 cm / 12”) and a paper clip. Paper clips are always at hand, fit in every pocket and if hair gets tangled (which often happens to me), you can bend it open! :)
What are the best materials for Ties and Wires?
For ear loops, I’ve so far used elastic ties, bra straps and jersey or nylon strips (which roll up on their own, even better with spandex!) and for the head tie, I’ve used textile ribbon or straight binding. Right now, I prefer soft flat 0,5 cm / 0.2″ elastics and tshirt yarn (cut 2,5 cm / 1″ wide), and I add slip knots (see below) or pony beads for adjustability.
I’m using 0,5 cm / 0.2″ width flat aluminum nose pieces with a length of around 15-16 cm / 6″-6.5″. If those are out, coffee ties should be a good option too. Floral or jewelry wire also bends well, stays in shape and survives accidental cooking :). If you use broader wire, make sure to adapt your nose piece tunnel seam to a suitable width!
What are the safest materials for fabrics and filters?
Cloth masks are not designed as safe protection for the wearer, but primarily to protect others. Reliable protection is only provided by appropriately certified masks or materials! However, cloth masks are not all the same, but differ greatly in quality. For all types of masks, the factors that determine their quality are (a) a gapless fit (as gaps reduce the efficiency of a mask by up to 60%!), (b) the filter efficiency of the materials used, as well as their (c) breathability.
Health organizations such as WHO or CDC therefore recommend at least three layers, in combinations such as (a) polyester, polycotton or silk as a moisture-repellent outer layer, (b) one or more layer of non-woven polypropylene (NWPP) or pellon as a mechanical filter layer in the middle and (c) cotton as a moisture-absorbing inner layer. When you’re using woven fabrics for masks, please look for high thread density (TPI 400-600) and don’t use knitted fabrics.
Studies on material filter efficiency can be found via MakerMask, Smart Air Filters, Hao et al or Mask FAQ. FMVIZ (s.o.) even offers a neat calculator for a wide range of fabric combinations, incl. breathability (by ASTM classification)!
All my masks pictures in this post are four-ply, with an outer layer made of cotton, two filter layers made of NWPP (80 gsm) and NWPP (40 gsm) or Vlieseline L11 (German equivalent to pellon), and an inner layer made of cotton.
The Hybrid Boxy Mask is surprisingly easy to sew with four relatively stable layers, so I assume that you could even add more layers without running into sewing problems. For two- or three-ply masks, I recommend keeping at least one non-woven layer (e.g. NWPP 80 gsm) and using cotton either only on the inside or only on the outside. With masks protruding from the mouth, NWPP seems fine as an inner layer, and it protrudes much more reliably than cotton!
If you want to sew with NWPP, please do not use an iron (it melts!) and pins (it breaks!), and use fingers and clips instead. Washing is no issue at all though! You can find out more about using NWPP for masks at makermask.org.
If you’d like to read on about how and why masks work, please visit my post about the science behind masks.
Can I double mask with the Hybrid Boxy Mask?
The Hybrid Boxy Mask can also be worn as a double mask over a surgical mask, which should have its earloops knotted at the sides. As a cover for the FFP2 / KN95 type of masks, the Hybrid Pleated Mask fits much better!
For single and double ply masks, sewing an 8″ x 1″ strip of batting such as Pellon into the inside of the very top part, right between top seam and nose wire seam, can help the nose piece to fit a bit softer and thereby, seal even better.
How does the optional Filter Frame work?
Filter materials are even more complicated to insert into the Hybrid Boxy Mask than into the Hybrid Pleated Mask, so instead of the filter opening I invented a filter frame, which allows you to place the filter material inside the finished mask and distribute it into the corners and pleats, so that the fabric frame holds the filter material safely on all sides.
To sew this mask with a filter frame, enlarge the pattern: For the outer layer, 4 cm / 1.6” length are added at the bottom, for the inner layer, 4 cm / 1.6” length are added at the top, and for each channel, 3 cm / 1.2” width are added. After stitching the first two seams as usual, turn the piece right side out, move the outer fabric down 2 cm / 0.8”, stitch the nose wire tunnel and the fabric edge. Now, fold in 2 cm / 0.8” of frame at top and bottom, and sew on as instructed.
To insert pre-cut filter materials, turn the top with the reverse pleat inside out, place filter corners into mask corners, then work your way down pleat by pleat, corner by corner. When everything fits smoothly, fold in the frame!
In the appendix of the Hybrid Boxy Mask Tutorial, you’ll find more detailed instructions with step by step pictures.
I am confused. What is the easiest way to make this mask?
The variants might make my Hybrid Boxy Mask a little confusing, but they were just too good to hide in my drawers! :) – To keep it simple, just go with the Chin Pleat Down version, which is pictured in the PDF instructions and in the first pattern. I recommend to print those, start sewing and whenever you’re insecure, you can look up details in the tutorial!
Can I test Masks, Materials and gapless Fit at Home?
In advance, always make sure to test breathability of materials and masks! If you are unsure, please ask your doctor.
Here’s how you can simply test and compare at home how effectively your material is filtering:
★ Light Test: If you hold your fabrics or your masks up to the light, you can see how densely woven the fabric is.
★ Spray Test: If you spray water through a mask – or layers of fabric – to a mirror, you can well see the permeability.
★ We don’t recommend the popular Candle Test, as this only tests breathability of a mask, not the filter efficiency.
This is how you can simply test at home whether – and where exactly – your mask has gaps:
★ Glasses Test: If your glasses fog up with a mask, it tells you that the top of the mask is not completely gapless.
★ Mint Test: If you eat a peppermint (e.g. Tictac) and it stings your eyes, the top of the mask does not fit snug.
★ Puff Test: When you breathe hard, the mask should bulge. All draft or movement along the edges indicate gaps!
★ Smoke Test: If you inhale smoke and exhale it inside the mask, you can clearly see the path of the air flow.
In order to find out whether your mask reliably stays in place, it’s better to not only put it on briefly in advance, but rather try to speak, laugh and yawn in it – and after that, you can run the tests mentioned above once more!
Can I possibly purchase the Hybrid Boxy Mask somewhere?
The pattern is brand new, so none of my fabulous sewing partners from all over the world is making it yet, but besides being very knowledgeable with my patterns and – unlike me! – sewing on a highly professional level, they’re all just really nice people, so if you’d like to purchase a mask made with this pattern, I’d suggest to ask them kindly! :)
I update those questions and hacks annotations continously (last: December 6th, 2021)! If you have questions yourself, please feel free comment below (or via Facebook, Twitter, Instagram) – or just send me an email via contact form!
Download of Instructions and Pattern as a printable PDF
Here you can download a printable PDF with pattern and instructions for my Hybrid Boxy Mask [V1K | December 1st, 2021, 5 PM] on 6 pages, in EU Din A4 or US letter format. Before download, make sure to read the conditions below!
* Conditions of Use, Rights and Sharing
This design, pattern and instructions are protected by German copyright laws (© Iris Luckhaus | All rights reserved). I hereby agree to a non-commercial use of my design, which means that you may sew masks for yourself, your family and friends or for donating them to others for free, given that my copyright, name and website are always included!
Without my prior written permission, you may not reproduce, distribute or commercially use any of this material in any way. This means that you are not authorized to present this design (or modifications of it) as your own, and that you may not publish your own photo or video tutorials with my pattern! As long as it’s not a tutorial though, I enjoy seeing your pictures with my mask, and thank you very much for tagging @irisluckhaus and #luckhausmask! :)
For updates and further developments (which are sure to come!), please follow me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Xing, LinkedIn, Pinterest or YouTube. If you’d like to share my pattern with your friends, feel free to use my posts!
I’m spending a lot of unpaid time on elaborating and explaining those instructions, helping the helpers to help. If you’d like to encourage this, I’d highly appreciate if you could buy me a little time via Paypal (email@example.com)!
If you’d like to use my instructions commercially (i.e. with the intention of making a profit), f.e. by selling masks sewn according to my pattern, please contact me and let me know more about your business, your location and your ideas!
Big thanks to Angelika, Minna, Matthias and Reinhard for all the great support – and particularly for the patient and competent trying out and trying on all these test masks! Furthermore, I’d like to thank the countless volunteer sewists from various mask groups on Facebook – especially Rebecca, Hope, Jocelyn, Ania, Devon and Sophie, to whom I owe a large part of my mask education! – for clever questions and infectious enthusiasm, as well as my fabulous sewing partners and last but not least all those who support my mask patterns with donations! You are so great.
Take good care of yourself and stay well! ❤