In addition to the illustrated instructions for sewing my brand new, not only gaplessly and slip-free fitting, but also very spacious Hybrid Boxy Mask, I have now created a highly detailed step-by-step picture tutorial for beginners!
Table of Contents
Brief Introduction to the Special Features of the Hybrid Boxy Mask, and How to use the Tutorial alongside Instructions
Chapter (1) Preparation of Pattern, Material, Supplies | Chapter (2) Marking, Stiching and Ironing on the Wrong Side
Chapter (3) Stitching, Marking and Pleating on the Right Side | Chapter (4) Arranging and Sewing the Outer Channel
Chapter (5) Ironing and Stitching the Inner Part of the Tunnel | Chapter (6) Inserting Wire, Ties and Filter Materials
Appendix for the Hybrid Boxy Mask with (a) Chin Pleat Up, (b) Separate Side Channels and (c) Filter Frames | Rights
Brief Introduction to the Hybrid Boxy Mask
I more or less reinvented the boxy type of mask – and optimized the pattern as well as the process, to make it fit gapless on nose, sides and chin and stay put without any slipping or fogging up glasses. Thanks to its reverse nose pleat, this pattern doesn’t even need a nosepiece! Individual parts such as wire, ties or filters are easily interchangeable. Once you understand how the pattern works, the mask is easy and quick (10-15 minutes) to sew!
To follow this tutorial, please download the PDF with instructions and pattern. In the original post, you’ll find all the Hybrid Boxy Mask’s features and variants explained in detail, a size chart, some tips and tricks as well as an FAQ. ➔
Picture Tutorial for the Hybrid Boxy Mask (Chin Pleat Down)
This cloth mask can be sewn easily and quickly (10-15 min.). You’ll need at least 2, better more, layers of fabric that can be washed with at least 60° C (please test in advance whether you can breathe through your chosen combo!), 14-16 cm / 5” – 6.5” of nose (or garden) wire, 50-100 cm / 20” – 40” (elastic) ribbon for the ties, a sewing machine or needle & thread, scissors, clips or pins, chalk for marking and a tool to pull ties through, e.g. an awl, folded wire or safety pin.
First, please download pattern and instructions at the bottom of the original post and print out both in the desired size ( chart see post). For this instruction tutorial, I am showing the simplest variant, namely the Hybrid Boxy Mask with a downward or inside chin fold, with side channels folded over. Notes on variants are found in between the text!
(1) Cut at least two, preferrably more, layers of material (recommendations see post) according to the printed pattern. For cutting, the pattern can be folded in the middle and placed on layered fabrics that are folded in the middle as well. For attached channels, the outermost layer is cut 3 cm / 1.2” wider than the inner layer/s on both sides, at least in the places where it will be folded over, so it looks like flaps or wings. Alternatively, you can add width to the whole length.
Tip: The fit and stability of the mask (particularly of its innermost layers!) are well increased if the outer layer/s are cut and processed slightly (3-5 mm / 0.1” – 0.2”) larger than the inner layers – which I forgot when I was taking photos! :)
Tip: In order not to get too confused about all these layers and their right side, it can help to first stack the layers in the order you’d like to have in your mask (see picture), then divide in the middle and put top layers to the bottom.
Variation: If you want to sew the chin pleat downwards (as we do here), it is sufficient to only add 3 cm for the channel to the central segment of the pattern on both sides (see pictures). If you want to sew the chin pleat upwards instead or if you work with very light or flimsy outermost fabrics, please add 3 cm / 1.2” for the channels over the entire length.
Variation: For separate side channels, all layers are cut to same width without extra side allowances, plus two strips of 6 x 9 cm / 2.4” x 3.6” each. You’ll find a detailed picture tutorial for attaching them in the Hybrid Pleated Mask‘s tutorial!
(2) Layer fabrics with the right side inwards. If using multiple layers, make them into two even stacks beforehand and treat those stacks as one layer. Mark the opening for your nose wire, according to the pattern, at the top left corner. Topstitch 1 cm / 0.4” from the edge at the top and at the bottom. Finger press both seam allowances apart, and flat.
Tip: To make the inner layer/s slightly smaller than the outer layer/s and thereby enhance the fit, the fabrics can be rolled up after sewing the first seam at the top, so that the edges for the second seam at the bottom shift slightly!
Variants: For particularly neat insides of the mask, you can serger or fold over and sew around all the open edges.
(3) Turn your piece right side out. Press the sewn edges flat with your fingers, then topstitch the tunnel for the nose wire 0,5-1 cm / 0.2” – 0.4” (depending on your wire’s width) from the top edge. Turn the piece with the inside towards you. For the reverse nose pleat (A or blue marking in the pattern), fold the top 3,25 cm / 1.3” down and pin / clip it.
Tip: Instead of marking the reverse nose pleat with chalk each time, it can much easier be folded over a set square, the pre-folded printout of the pattern or – even better – an approx. 3,25 cm / 1.3” tall, rectangular cardboard template.
(4) For the chin pleat (B or green marking in the pattern), lift the bottom part of your piece upwards, so that the top and bottom edges are right on top of each other. Pin / clip the fold at the bottom. Hold the side edge in the middle, fold down the bottom corner and twist it outwards, so that all the side edges are all flush, and the bottom edge of the piece meets exactly the bottom edge of the pleat. Pin / clip. The top of the chin pleat now touches the reverse nose pleat (A).
Variation: Here, the open chin pleat (B or green marking in the pattern) points downwards, when seen from the outside of your mask. If you want the chin pleat (B) to point upwards, it’s exactly the same procedure, but after folding back the reverse nose pleat, you’ll turn your piece to the outside instead of the inside, and fold the open chin pleat from there.
(5) Smooth out the outer fabric and fold the protruding edges of the side allowance upwards, in a triangular shape, so that they form a straight line with the bottom edge. Then, fold the side allowance up to the edge of the inner layers, then fold exactly around the edge. Topstitch the channel from the outside, at a distance of 1 cm / 0.4” from the edge.
Tip: To simplify the stable handling of the now very three-dimensional workpiece, it can be helpful to lean one side of the piece against an object on your table (e.g. a coffee mug or a pin holder :)), while you work on the other side!
Variants: Depending on material and hand size, folding and sewing the channels can be a tricky affair. To make things easier, you can fix the pleats for all layers before folding in the channels – and next time, you can add 0,5-1 cm / 0.2” – 0.4” per allowance – but if you do that, please make sure that all seams and side edges stay exactly in place!
(6) Find your opening and push the nose wire into its tunnel, then use an awl, a folded wire or a safety pin to pull the ties into the side channels. Then, provide the ear loops with an adjustable knot, or adjust them individually. – Done! :)
Tip: For an adjustable knot, simply lead ribbon A around the remaining straight ribbon B with a pretzel knot, and pull it super tight. Ribbon B, which has remained straight throughout the process, can now be pulled to adjust the tie length.
Congratulations, your mask is ready! When donning it, please do not forget to fold up the reverse nose pleat, adjust the straps individually and pull the channels tight, so that the sides fit neatly. I hope you enjoyed sewing with me! :)
Appendix for the Variants of the the Hybrid Boxy Mask
This appendix shows you what to do differently for variants – (a) chin pleat up, (b) separate channels and (c) filter frame. To not repeat the full tutorial, I only mention the things you’ll do differently. For everything else, please follow instructions above! I recommend to sew the simple version first, so you know how it works before making variants :)
Hybrid Boxy Mask with Chin Pleat Up
To sew the Hybrid Boxy Mask with the open chin pleats upwards, the outermost layer is cut 3 cm / 1.2” wider than the inner layer/s on both sides, at full length. Proceed as instructed. After folding the top pleat to the inside, turn the piece around to the outside. Now, lift the bottom part upwards, so that top and bottom edge align. Pin / clip at the bottom. Hold the side edge in the middle, fold down the bottom corner and twist it outwards, so that the bottom edge of the piece meets exactly the bottom edge of the pleat, and side edges are flush. Pin / clip and proceed as instructed.
Here, you can see the finished Hybrid Boxy Mask with the chin pleat pointing upwards and folded full-length channels from different angles, which may be helpful to understand how it works and what goes where exactly in this variant!
Hybrid Boxy Mask with Separate Channels
To sew the Hybrid Boxy Mask with seperate side channels, all layers are cut at the same width, plus two 6 x 9 cm / 2.4” x 3.6”strips. Fold the open chin pleat in your preferred direction, pin / clip it, then place the fabric strips aligned with side edges, right side to right side. Fold in top and bottom of the strips to the right height, then stitch app. 1 cm / 0.4″ from the cutting edge. Fold strips outwards and press. Now fold them in, to meet the side edge, and all around the edge. Pin / clip strips down, overlapping the seam. Stitch from the front, in the ditch, and proceed as instructed above.
This is the finished Hybrid Boxy Mask with the chin pleat pointing upwards and separate channels from different angles, which may help to understand which part goes where. You can find more detailed picture instructions for attaching side channels with more photos and explanations in chapter (4) of the Hybrid Pleated Mask Tutorial!
Hybrid Boxy Mask with Filter Frames
To sew this mask with a filter frame, enlarge the pattern: For the outer layer, 4 cm / 1.6” length is added at the bottom, for the inner layer, 4 cm / 1.6” length is added at the top, and for each channel, 3 cm / 1.2” of width is added. After stitching the first two seams as usual, turn right side out, move outer fabric down 2 cm / 0.8”, stitch nose wire tunnel and also the fabric edge. Now, fold in 2 cm / 0.8” of frame at top and bottom, and sew on according to instructions.
To learn more about how filter frames work, please feel free to check out my post on filter frames for masks!
To insert pre-cut filter materials, turn the top with the reverse pleat inside out, place filter corners into mask corners, then work your way down pleat by pleat, corner by corner. When everything fits smoothly, fold in the frame!
Depending on questions, I update parts of this post sometimes (last: December 7th, 2021). If you think that something is missing or unclear, please feel free comment below (or via Facebook, Twitter, Instagram) or send me an email!
* Conditions of Use, Rights and Sharing
This design, pattern and instructions are protected by German copyright laws (© Iris Luckhaus | All rights reserved). I hereby agree to a non-commercial use of my design, which means that you may sew masks for yourself, your family and friends or for donating them to others for free, given that my copyright, name and website are always included!
Without my prior written permission, you may not reproduce, distribute or commercially use any of this material in any way. This means that you are not authorized to present this design (or modifications of it) as your own, and that you may not publish your own photo or video tutorials with my pattern! As long as it’s not a tutorial though, I enjoy seeing your pictures with my mask, and thank you very much for tagging @irisluckhaus and #luckhausmask! :)
For updates and further developments (which are sure to come!), please follow me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Xing, LinkedIn, Pinterest or YouTube. If you’d like to share my pattern with your friends, feel free to use my posts!
I’m spending a lot of unpaid time on elaborating and explaining those instructions, helping the helpers to help. If you’d like to encourage this, I’d highly appreciate if you could buy me a little time via Paypal (firstname.lastname@example.org)!
If you’d like to use my instructions commercially (i.e. with the intention of making a profit), f.e. by selling masks sewn according to my pattern, please contact me and let me know more about your business, your location and your ideas!
Big thanks to Angelika, Minna, Matthias and Reinhard for all the great support – and particularly for the patient and competent trying out and trying on all these test masks! Furthermore, I’d like to thank the countless volunteer sewists from various mask groups on Facebook – especially Rebecca, Hope, Jocelyn, Ania, Devon and Sophie, to whom I owe a large part of my mask education! – for clever questions and infectious enthusiasm, as well as my fabulous sewing partners, and last but not least all those who support my mask patterns with donations! You are so great.
Take good care of yourself and stay well! ❤